On the way to Champagne…

the Cathedral St Etienne was inpressive

on the Yonne river

This month we took a few days off to visit the Champagne –Ardenne region and catch up with a group of australian friends during their french sojourn. This visit they decided would have a theme – wine – who would have guessed ?

we loved the chambre d'hotes we found

an ideal spot for breakfast 

As it’s quite a drive diagonally across France from our house in the south west to Champagne, we chose to stopover in a town about which we knew nothing.  Auxerre is the capital of the Yonne department and is on the river Yonne .  It started out as a roman town on the Via Agrippa linking the Mediterranean to the North Sea and grew over the centuries eventually including a cathedral, an abbey and two fine churches. Nearby towns include Chablis ( for the wine of course) and Chaource which is known for it's cheese, one of our favourites.

not so sure about french taste in house colours

it may have a lean but it's still standing 

so many colours

This is a beautiful town with a pretty medieval  centre and lots of little lanes for discovering original half timbered houses. There is a park along the riverside where visitors can stroll and enjoy eating in a string of restaurants overlooking the moored boats and barges.  

Place Saint Nicolas with it's restaurants beside the river

Saint Nicolas - unusual house adornment\

not the first one we've seen in a french town

the clock gate

beautiful gold leaf decoration 

A walk across the pedestrian bridge provides a wonderful view of the town and the hilltop cathedral. It is said that St Patrick studied here before going off to Ireland.   

Cathedral St Etienne towers above the town

and finally - families playing in the water feature by the river

trés bonne semaine 

Jazz and a lovely party by the riverside

jazz on the quai

The mairie had organised a jazz performance on the quai on friday night. As the weather forecast was for a beautiful summer evening our friends decided to throw a dinner party in their garden overlooking the river.

lovely view of the river

We were all greeted with a glass of champagne and gathered in the garden to catch up with those we already knew and to make new acquaintances. It was a bit of a multicultural gathering represented by France , Australia , Canada,  China, and Thailand .

The sun set around nine o’clock and we sat down at a very long table on the terrace just as the band began to play.

Wonderful food, lots of wine and a convivial atmosphere all to the sounds of New Orleans style jazz just close enough to enjoy without interfering with conversation.

What an inspired idea this evening was. Thank you to Thida and Eric.

If you'd like the idea of staying at Thida and Eric's house, they have two gites available for holidays

www.labatellerie.com

bon week-end mes amis

Marché Gourmand at Monfaucon

the bar is always popular

Another glorious summer evening on sunday  so we went to the marché gourmand in a very small local village, the home of friends. About 14 of us took up a long table and settled in to eat, drink and enjoy the local band. The music was loud and enthusiastic, just like the market itself. Great fun on a summer’s night. 

the band was loud and enthusiastic

the servings were generous

you have to love your escargots

lots of choices

the french do love their oysters and bulots (whelks)

the outdoor kitchens are basic but effective

one of our neighbours is a dab hand with moules ( mussels)

another neighbour is a chef at the local bar , and helping out here

There were lots of choices for food  - escargots, salade périgourdine  ( that's with duck gizzards), paella, porc jarret (knuckle), entrecôte, and of course, crepes, ice cream and various cakes to finish.

Unlike many of these markets, this one attracted lots of younger people and this added to the atmosphere of lighthearted fun.

In villages all over the region there are night markets, farmers markets, concerts of all kinds in halls and churches. You could eat out every night at a different market and be entertained by a variety of talented artists (ok, so some aren’t so talented ). "La vie en rose"  is true of summer in country France.

hope life is good for you wherever you are 

Summer entertainments

The evening was balmy with a cooling breeze off the river so we went along to the marché gourmand in Port Ste Foy , conveniently in our street. A couple of hundred people had the same idea and we all took up places at tables under the new halle. Remember, we were at the opening just 2 years ago .

As is the custom at a village dinner, we all brought along our own plates, cutlery and plastic glasses. On offer was steak and frites, omelette and salad, poulet basquaise ( chicken in a tomato sauce with rice) and paella, and lots of local wine.

sing along

and clap and wave

Opposite us at the table we discovered yet another English couple staying in the area while they search for a house to buy. This is the second time this month that we have met such people. News from local property agents suggests that the market is strong with many UK residents deciding to make the move (50% permanently, apparently) to France before Brexit is activated rather than stay in the UK. Interesting times.

Our mayor and the 'trendy'  DJ

Dinner finished, the DJ started up the music, but not before the mayor gave a little speech of welcome and then was persuaded to sing along to a number popular with the locals. Don’t now the song but the words were “ la, la, la, la “ - I kid you not. It went on for quite a while and there was even a lot of arm waving as the crowd sang along too. Perhaps a little too much wine by this point ?

'beach' at Port Ste Foy

During the week we also had the rugby competition on the ‘beach’  beside the river. Every summer the commune ‘refreshes’ the sand on this spot in a park opposite Ste Foy township. There is a netted swimming area, beach volleyball court and a kiosk selling cold drinks and ice creams, just like any beach. As it is school holiday time this is a popular spot on hot days. Further along the riverside are the tennis courts and the Club Nautique, home to our kayak club.

At the weekly marché gourmand in Ste Foy la Grande the music was ‘cumbia’, which I understand is South American. In weeks to come there will also be Salsa, Greek music and New Orleans Jazz.

Last weekend was the Fête de la Riviere. There was evening canoeing  from town to town, history walks, exhibitions and lots more to celebrate the contribution the river has made to the local life.

We visited the Maison du Fleuve ( River House), a museum of  life on the river. Some wonderful exhibits , including many model boats, and lots of old photos. It was fascinating for us to see what life in our village was like long ago and the importance of the river to local business. Embarrassed to admit that we have lived here for three years now and have only just visited this museum for the first time....and it's around the corner from us ! 


Lots more events in the calendar for summer...

bon week-end mes amis