The oldest buildings in Sainte-Foy-la-Grande

In 1255, Sainte Foy la Grande was given it’s royal charter by Alphonse de Poitiers , son of Louis VIII. This gave them permission to hold a weekly market and to govern themselves as an independent town. There has been a settlement here since at least roman times. There are ruins of roman villas scattered along the river valley and artifacts were found here in town during various building works.

rue de la republique - before cars

In the back streets of the old town centre there are quite a few buildings showing their age. 

these  carvings are on the facade of a medieval building.
One side depicts 'good' and the other 'evil'. Not sure which is which or even
what some of them are

this tower is known as La Tour des Templiers (the templar's tower).
The jury is out as to whether it's actually templar or not
but there is also a legend that there is a tunnel from the tower,
under the river, to a house on the other side.

One of them has always interested me. It is built from local stone and has the most beautiful arched windows. It dates from the 13^th century so would be one of the oldest structures still standing and in use here.

lovely arched windows

  

It is only one storey, which is unusual, and was probably originally a craftsman’s house.  It is beside one of the houses owned by the Langalerie family who were one of the local “squires”.  

Chateau de Langalerie

For many years in the last century  it was the atelier (studio) of Paul Corriger, a famous ceramicist. His work has been exhibited in cities like Paris and Florence and many are in buildings around the town, like the post office, the station and schools.

And what is it today ? My hairdresser.  Just a reminder that these old towns live and grow and change.

Bonne semaine mes amis

L’Escalier d’Écluses à Tuilières

  

Lalinde Canal - no longer used by boats

I had heard about these now unused locks (écluses)  tucked away  on the Lalinde Canal near Bergerac. Flat bottomed boats called ‘gabares’ used to carry goods down the Dordogne river to Bordeaux , but , because of the rapids at this spot, there was always a problem. So the Lalinde Canal was built and the écluses became essential  for the safe progress of trade goods. Built in 1843, this lock system is 289 metres long and drops 22 metres to the river below .

a shaded walk overlooking the canal

a stand of banana trees ???

fig trees grow everywhere here

 

the power station now blocks the river

the river is shallow here 

a quiet spot on the riverbank

the old lock keeper's cottage

the roar of the water through the gates is quite deafening

down and down it tumbles

dropping down toward the river.....

through the arch.....

and out to the open river

There are always wonderful new places to discover. 

bonne semaine

The street gardens are alive with insects this year

fabulous flowers in the mairie carpark

I usually post a story in may or june about the street gardens in our village but they were planted late this year , no doubt because of the weather. Each spring the commune workers replant the little gardens on street corners and road islands and each time they include some form of sculpture with a theme. The past two years it has been ‘birds’ but this year it’s ‘insects’. This must be their indoor activity during the winter and they have proven to be very talented people.

The heatwave that has overwhelmed Europe has kept us indoors on many days. We complained about the cold and rain through winter and spring, then summer hit suddenly . Looking forward to autumn already.

the local patchwork group has wrapped the trees in the street in fabric -
it's an unexpected and happy surprise

We did enjoy a lunch with australian friends last week at a popup restaurant  on the quayside at Pessac-sur-Dordogne.  It was lovely to be outside enjoying a breeze off the river . Someone brought their horses down for a swim, and others arrived by canoe.

Garder au frais (keep cool)

Lily’s first visit to the sea

Biscarrosse Plage 

The weather has now turned summery so a trip to the beach seemed appropriate. It was Lily's first experience of the sea. She wasn't keen on getting wet but was quite happy to play in the sand and say hello to anyone who showed an interest. Another big adventure in her little life.

that's a lot of water, dad

surf's up !

The Atlantic coast from the Gironde estuary north of Bordeaux almost to the spanish border is one continuous beach known as the Côte d’Argent ( the silver coast). One would have expected lots of seaside villages and expensive homes with views of the sea. Not so here near Bordeaux. The few villages that claim the name “plage” are small and simple and sometimes sit behind sand dunes so there isn’t even a view of the sea from their bars and restaurants. The houses are usually quite simple and nestle low as though they are hiding from  atlantic storms. Gardens are non existent, perhaps because so many houses are only inhabited for a few months of the year.

"interesting" toys for the beach

chasing a rogue umbrella

The countryside is very flat and forested. Apparently this region , the Landes, was once all swampy heathland and considered only good for raising sheep. Because of the wet conditions the shepherds walked about on stilts. Heaven knows how the sheep managed.

old postcard of a shepherd and his flock

During the nineteenth century the sheep were replaced with pine plantations, and now the local economy is based on forestry.

marina on one of the lakes

the sailing club on the lake

Behind this long beach is a series of lakes. These too are very popular in summer for boating and fishing and there are many camping areas. As much of the region is a Parc Naturel the forests take priority over everything else  and , apart from the summer holiday towns, most of the villages are small. And then there are the nudist resorts scattered along the coast.

enjoy wherever you are 

Dreaming of a longer stay in France ?

Many people dream of spending more time in France than just taking a holiday.  To have a place of your own as a base and have the time to wander off exploring without a timetable , that’s the way to really discover a place. We’ve done this many times and really enjoyed being able to live “like a local”…..buying fresh produce at the many markets and taking it home to try out those dishes you’ve experienced in local restaurants…….eating with the locals in their favourite little bistros and routiers………discovering new wines through visits to local producers at the source.

duck confit - a local speciality

french onion soup , excellent on a cold winter's day

tarte tatin - what more can one say ?

And then there is all the history.

Chateau de Commarque

Chateau de Neuvic

Abbaye de La Sauve-Majeur

Having the time to explore by car or by foot…to follow the paths less travelled and see the countryside through all seasons, not just when it is full of tourists. That’s the real way to know a place.

Port Sainte Foy et Ponchapt

terrace overlooking the river

Well, my friends Thida and Eric have just the place for you. They have a wonderful house beside the Dordogne in our village. In their garden is a renovated carriage house just waiting for someone with an adventurous heart to rent for a longer stay , like a year or even more.

one of the charming bedrooms

the beautiful main house and garden

Is this for you ?

They are happy to answer all your questions through their website

https://www.labatellerie.com/holiday-cottage

and we are happy to offer advice where we can.

rêves heureux