6 Feb 2019

Limeuil et Trémolat




yellow stone and high pitched roofs

The sun came out on Sunday morning, not something that happens often at this time of year here, so why not make the most of the day while it lasts and take a drive in the country. Sundays are always quiet on the roads as nothing much is open and  french families get together for lunch, either at home or in one of  the few local restaurants to open on a Sunday. So we had the roads pretty much to ourselves.


the confluence of the two waterways

the things some men will do to get out of the house

there's always someone on a bicycle on a sunday

We decided to visit two villages that are off the main road up toward the Vézère valley. We’ve often driven along the main road and noticed the signposts , but never taken the time to turn off and explore. As is so often the case, big mistake as we discovered these little gems.




steep little passageways

can't get lost

one of the four original gateways into the village

Haven't seen many of these -  €1.00 each
for a freshly baked baguette

Limeuil is at the confluence of the Vézère and Dordogne rivers. Actually, the Vézère is a river and the Dordogne is a fleuve. A fleuve is a waterway that flows into the sea, and a river flows into a fleuve ( thus the Musée du Fleuve in our town on the Dordogne).  As these two waterways have been the major highways of the area for hundreds of years, this village has been of major importance, especially in medieval times.






At the top of the promontory overlooking the town is the ruins of the chateau that once protected the villagers,  especially during the Hundred Years’ War with England. Beneath is a cave with over 200 carvings in the limestone  suggesting that this site has been inhabited for perhaps 15,000 years. The Vézère valley is famous for it’s prehistoric sites including Lascaux, so it’s no surprise to think that this spot was important to early man. The hills around the area are now thickly forested, but once they were covered with vineyards and the wine was shipped down the Dordogne to Bordeaux. The phylloxera infestation around 1880 killed off the vines and devastated the local economy.


La Rèze rushing through the centre of Trémolat

some wonderful old stonework in a garden

and more...

Further down the road is the village of Trémolat. There is a fast flowing stream, La Rèze,  running through the centre of town and eventually joining the Dordogne nearby. In the centre of town is a fabulous looking four star hotel with a Michelin starred restaurant. Definitely somewhere for a return visit.

Le Vieux Logis
rear view of the hotel

and the garden

I do love the old gates





These are villages of the “périgordine” style house, local yellow stone and high pitched roofs. The area is known as Périgord Noir because of the forests of dark green oaks. It is also world famous  for black truffles. While this Sunday was cool and the sunshine didn’t last long, I can see why this area is  so popular in the summer. This region is stunning and the villages charming and worth the visit.





Now where to next ?


amour à tous