San Sebastian – part two - Hola !!!!

a little drizzly in the morning, but the local parks still look lovely

Next day a little rain had arrived so we chose to see the town by the sightseeing bus. This proves to be an excellent way to get to understand the different areas of the town and some of the history though not good conditions for taking photos through the rain soaked window. Loved that the Tennis Club was right beside and overlooking the beach - such distracting views for players. Everyone is out walking in the drizzle.

tide coming up the River Urumea

low tide in the river

french style houses along the riverfront

There have been many occupiers over the city’s 800 year existence and you can see the more recent influences in the architecture, especially the french who are so close by.

Cathedral Buen Pastor

The city is very typically Spanish, meaning that it is relaxed while still busy. Most shops here close between 1.30 and 5.00pm for lunch. It is also interesting to see surfers walking through these sophisticated city streets from their homes to the beach in their wetsuits with board tucked under arm. The tide goes out a long way including from the river, but those surfers seem to always be there in the water, waiting.

waiting for a wave in the rain

There are many festivals here during the year including for film , jazz, theatre, opera, and even beach football.

In 2016, San Sebastian will be the European City of Culture. Accordingly there is a long list of events all year round to entice everyone to visit, as if that is necessary. We loved the relaxed, easy going, friendliness of the locals and are looking forward to a return visit.

Now, off to lunch.....see part three

A little drive into Spain – San Sebastian - part one

City, beaches and mountains

After having two weeks with guests, we had a few days to spare and decided to take a little drive with our most recent visiting friends.

Blue, blue sea and sandy beaches

San Sebastian was calling. For those who have been there , need I say more.

The 'old town' and ruined fort

It’s just a little less than a four hour drive, so for Australians, nothing. After an uneventful cruise down the autoroute we arrived on the outskirts to find that our GPS was confusing this San Sebastian with a suburb of Madrid, a 450km drive further south. Jan to the rescue with her trusty phone app and we eventually found the hotel. One thing we have learned over the years, never totally trust ‘madam GPS’.

Spot Jan and Daryl in the crowd

The sun was shining and the beach and old town beckoned. Such a wonderful mix of architectural styles and open boulevards , and then the narrow alleys filled with pintxos bars in the  ‘old town’  and pedestrianised streets with fabulous shopping in the  ‘romantic’ area. As the town centre is flat it’s perfect for walking between beaches, river and seaside headlands.

the headland walk

We had decided to spend Friday night on a bar crawl and check out the pintxos on offer. This weekend featured the San Sebastian Marathon, so lots of extra visitors in town. The lane ways were full of people eating and drinking outdoors and noisily enjoying themselves, young children and dogs included. The occasional street musical performance added to the party atmosphere. We tried a number of versions of sangria  ( in the name of research, of course), and quite a lot of interesting looking 'finger food' eventually finishing at a bar near our hotel for that last glass of local wine. The most curious dish we found was a plate of mini hamburgers  coloured 'glow in the dark' electric blue ! You would have to be starving and quite inebriated to try those.

lanes full of pintxos bars

fabulous architecture

 And then a good night's sleep in preparation for another day exploring.

On to part two.....

May is a great month in France

Locals playing petanque under the blossom

There are four public holidays here in May and because of the day they fall that means four long weekends. What a month !

This is my muguets 

First – May Day or Fête du Travail. On this day you may be given a bouquet of muguets, that is ‘lily of the valley’. The custom goes back to Charles IX who was given a bouquet as a good luck gift on 1^st May  1561. He so loved the idea that he decided to give a  bouquet to each of the ladies of his court, and so began a lovely tradition. It is said that, if someone gives you muguets then you are loved.

This is also the day for making omelette à l’aillet. The aillet is a garlic that looks like a spring onion and only appears at this time of year in Aquitaine. At repas and fêtes all over the country giant omelettes are being created for sharing. We are going to a marché de fleurs and vide grenier in a local village where they will be serving omelette à l'aillet for breakfast - with a glass of wine, of course.

enough omelette for everyone

Breakfast !

Second – VE Day or Armistice de 1945. Commemoration ceremonies are held at war memorials in every village and town, usually followed by a glass or two of wine. We must always remember those who made the ultimate sacrifice.

The gardens have been replanted and the flagposts in place at our
 village memorial ready for VE Day.

Third – Ascension Day. As this is a religious holiday many people attend church services and it is usually a quiet day spent with family and friends. As it is a Thursday many will also take Friday  and make un petit vacance.

And finally – Whit Monday or Lundi de Pentecôte. Another religious holiday usually spent at home, or at a marché.

As a day off is always a good excuse for a marché or a vide grenier, these will also pop up in villages everywhere on these holidays. The french adore a marché, so expect crowds. Last year we discovered a wonderful marché in the little village of Colombier near the chateau de Monbazillac overlooking Bergerac. We know it was busy , but the advertising for this year says that there were 8,000 people at this market on the one day. No wonder we had to queue up for a drink.

crowds at Colombier marché

The countryside is looking very different from the dull leafless vistas of winter. There has been lovely white and pink blossom everywhere in the orchards and now leaves are popping up on trees and , most importantly, the vines. We have had some very ordinary weather this spring, lots of cloud and drizzly rain. It may be good for the garden but we are hoping that May brings the sunshine.

Spring in the Dordogne valley

Bon weekend mes amis

La Rochelle and Ile de Ré.....a trip to the Atlantic Coast

emblem of La Rochelle

Haven’t been posting much lately as the weather has been miserable for months. “Unusual” so everyone tells us. We decided to take an overnight break and see a city that gets great reviews but that we hadn’t managed to visit before.

La Tour Saint Nicolas and La Tour de la Chaîne at the entrance to the old harbour and no they are not leaning.

The port is made up of  a series of small 'bassins' 

La Rochelle is on the Atlantic coast in the Bay of Biscay and is an old port town. The romans brought vineyards and harvested salt from the coastal saltpans. This made the area an important trading centre for centuries. It was once a major port for the french navy and the setting off point for journeys to the Americas and beyond. Now La Rochelle and it’s sister port, Rochefort, are well known for yacht building.

Yachts, yachts and more yachts

The Marquis de Lafayette left from here for the American colonies to provide french support for the war of independence against the british. A replica of his ship, the “Hermione”, has been built at Rochefort near La Rochelle and is on exhibition for all to see before it sails for the US in May.

the replica of the Hermione 

The ‘old town’ is built of beautiful white stone and features the usual narrow cobbled streets and colonnades. These days there are many restaurants, clothing and decorator shops to entice tourists to spend – the locals are still trading.

white stone, pale grey shutters and black ironwork - perfect

The town is built of a white stone so, no doubt, very beautiful in the sunshine with the sea as it’s background.

along the harbour front 

 The harbour front is lined with seafood restaurants for every budget.

gatehouse into the 'old town'

the clock tower

The Café de la Paix is in a building constructed in 1793 and is now classified as an historic monument. During it’s life it has been a hospital and a theatre before being reincarnated as a café in 1900 and redecorated in the Belle Epoque style. A more beautiful spot to stop and enjoy a coffee, as we did,  would be hard to find.

Cafe de la Paix

Cafe de la Paix interior

The land around La Rochelle is flat, marshy and scrubby. Over the centuries the locals have dug ditches in an effort to drain the land, but farming isn’t in much evidence. The saltpans, especially on the Ile de Ré are world famous and the local pineau des charentes is an excellent aperitif and well worth trying. But it’s the seafood that the town is probably best known for, especially the oysters.

The bridge to Ile de Ré is 2.9km long and the second longest bridge in France

The Ile de Ré is well known in France as a holiday island. Celebrities have been coming here for generations to enjoy the sea and the seafood and the relaxed lifestyle. There is no high-rise and the scattered villages are made up of white painted cottages behind high walls and narrow lanes leading to the beaches. In the summer the lanes and gardens are filled with flowers, and artists capturing that summer beach atmosphere. 

There are three lighthouses on the most western point of Ile de Ré. One built in 1682 , one in 1854, and another off the shoreline and about which I can’t find any information. When the tide goes out the beach almost reaches this little lighthouse so a very necessary warning to ships.

Graham's thoughts on our local dining experience :

Well it is true that the countryside is flat and a little marshy, but the same cannot be said about the food!

As a coastal town, seafood is high on the agenda of many of the local restaurants and of course we felt inclined to go with the majority and try the local seafood at Les Flots.

While Kerrie is allergic to oysters (huitre) the same does not apply to myself and I love them. I have tried the fabulous degustation of oysters at the “Boatshed” at Glebe and thoroughly enjoyed the variety.

However,  this night I tried 9 of the size No 3 oysters from the Ile D’Oleron (just off the coast)  and I have to say that they were the best oysters I have ever tried. Same flavour and texture as a Sydney Rock oyster, but twice the size. Absolutely wonderful, but I was left thinking that maybe I should only have had 6 of them.

Main courses consisted of oven roasted Sea Bass with a cuttlefish and crab ravioli and a celeriac mousseline for me and lightly seared scallops with a black truffle risotto for madam. Both were exclaimed as excellent.

The Fromage chariot and dessert (for Madam) followed.

This was all washed down with a pleasant 2005 Alsace Riesling which really complimented the meal. The service and knowledge from the staff provided a not unpleasant experience compared to many of our local restaurants.

If for nothing else, the trip was worthwhile just for the food.

The weather wasn't so good last week, but on Sunday the sun came out ! Perhaps spring has arrived at last 

Bonne semaine mes amis