A Day at the Rugby…..french style

Living in the South-West of France, it almost becomes obligatory that one follows the great game of rugby.

The club

We live in Port Sainte Foy, across the Dordogne River from the medieval town of Sainte Foy la Grande, where there is a local rugby club….”Stade Foyen”. One of my “red lines” when we decided to buy a property in this area is that the house had to be within walking distance of the local rugby stadium (stade). And so it results in being a short 500 metre walk from our home to the local stade.

Gathering of English friends for the Repas

This year, Stade Foyen are celebrating 110 years as a rugby club and are planning major events over a June weekend. They have been crowned club champions of France on at least one or two occasions in that time.

110 years and going strong

Since settling in the area in 2013, I have been a member of Stade Foyen for 6 years and attend all of their home games. Away games can sometimes mean a trip of up to 250 kms each way, so they become a little less attended.

A few of the locals spruiking one of our games

It is clear that there are a number of significant differences in the game here compared to back in Australia and I will endeavour to acquaint you with some of them.

The team

For background purposes, French Rugby comprises a number of different levels as set out below:

• Top 14 rugby….the elite competition in France with lots of imported players.
• Pro Division 2….is the next level down and includes many teams from all over France. It is the next level of professional rugby and is very competitive.
• Then we come down to what is known as Federal Rugby….semi-professional/amateur rugby played across the country in select geographic pools. There are 3 three levels of Federal….Fed 1, Fed 2 and Fed 3.
•  Finally there are a number of smaller clubs who make up the remaining competitions in the country.
• There are serious competitions for under 21 and going down to junior competitions.

Early in our time here, we met one of the local team second rowers, who explained to me that in the French game at this level, the referee actually gives the teams the first 5 minutes of the game without any interference, and this occasionally results in some epic fights breaking out without any serious punishment. The cheeky halfbacks create a stink in the first scrum and it is on for young & old.

The main field from the grandstand

The grounds that we play on are immaculate and I know that many players I know in Australia would love to play on them every week compared to some of the grounds back home. Whilst not fully amateur, most clubs run on a fairly tight budget and I have seen a few that strive to move up to a higher level fail and go into bankruptcy. Perigueux, one of the larger clubs in our region did just that a couple of years ago with debts exceeding €1,500,000 and so it is not for the faint hearted.

Game Day

At Stade Foyen, we are lucky to have a complex with two good playing fields and a grandstand holding around 800 people. It even has 8 permanent BOSE speakers for the announcer.

Getting settled in the stand....many more to come

Typically, a local match in our division (Federale 3) would attract a crowd of between 200 and 500 people, although a local derby at the beginning of this year drew almost 2,000. Entrance price is €8, so a good return for the club. The grandstand usually has an area for the local supporters and the other side for the visitors. My friends and I always sit at the back of the visitors section and give them hell, but in English. 

Inside the marquee.....ready for lunch

Perhaps the biggest and most enjoyable difference in watching a match here is the pre- match Repas or meal. The club has a permanent structure set up for meals for spectators before the game. This is normally a 3 or 4 course sit down meal together with local wines. The meals vary from roast beef, salads, pork (including the inclusion of all parts of the animal) and of course lots of frites (French fries), cheese and a desert. The meal costs €12-15 for 4 courses and the wines (good local varieties) are purchased at €5 a bottle.

Lunch with plenty of roast beef and frites

After the meal, everyone then moves to the stand to watch the games (we usually have 2 grades at Stade Foyen). Cheering on the team after a few bottles of red and maybe a coffee infused with cognac can make for an interesting day.

As we are coming to the end of our season, Stade Foyen are now playing in the finals and this weekend, we play off in the final for champions of the Gironde (our local department, which includes Bordeaux) and then the following weekend we commence the final 8 in the Championship for Nouvelle Aquitaine (our local region and the equivalent of a state in Australia).

Enjoying lunch and the brass band

I have endeavoured to post a few photos from our last match to give readers an idea of the atmosphere that makes the game so enjoyable here.