27 Aug 2019

L’Abbaye de Cadouin


the cloister

Cadouin is a small village in a valley in the forest of the Périgord Noir in the Dordogne region. Cadoun means “ quince tree”  in Occitan, the original language of the south of France.





market day just finishing


The abbaye has survived the Hundred Years War ( though the region changed hands from French to English and back a number of times ), the Wars of Religion and the Revolution.


the church facade - very grand looking, but a simple interior

Géraud de Salles and his followers settled in the valley in 1113 and, thanks to some generous donations, were able to commence building in 1115. The abbaye became Cistercian in 1119 and so the monks wore the white habit of this order.






The abbaye became famous as the home of “ the shroud of Christ’s  head “ and attracted visitors for over 600 years. The shroud was examined by experts in 1934 and found to be linen from the Nile delta, but made around 1100AD. It is believed it was brought back from the 1st Crusade so yet another example of a smooth talking souvenir seller. It is now kept in a safe place as a  “curiosity “  only.

A plethora of doors within the cloister ......










The buildings are constructed of pale yellow stone from nearby La Couze on the Dordogne river and have been added to and refurbished many times. There are a number of architectural styles including the original Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance.


ceiling detail

the abbot's seat - the monks have a simple stone bench



the only surviving mural so that's where these
english tourists choose to sit oblivious to all
( they were on their phones, of course)

extremely detailed stonework

I think he's picking his teeth (?)

The complex was abandoned in 1790 during the Revolution and was later used by local farmers as storage and the cloister as a pigsty.  It was bought by the Department of Dordogne in 1839 and restoration began. The work continues today and the site is on the UNESCO World Heritage list.






The church interior is simple but the cloister is fabulous. Well worth a visit to this charming little village off the beaten track. 



passe une bonne semaine






22 Aug 2019

Catching up






I know it’s been a while and I won’t go into why it’s taken so long (mostly health) but let me assure you, we are still here.


wrapped trees again courtesy of the patchwork group

I usually show you the street decorations  in May, so I’m catching up now. The flowers are looking a little the worse for wear after les canicules (the heatwaves) that we have endured this summer.




the metal birds have reappeared

We desperately need rain for the river as it is at the lowest level we’ve seen. This hasn’t helped the festivals in celebration of the river which usually include canoes and paddleboards. But has been made up for with more music festivals than we’ve seen in years.





It's so low,  the pony club can cross now

Algae and plantlife where there should be water


Next weekend is the Fête de Port Sainte Foy to celebrate the end of the summer vacation. There will be a petanque competition, a cycling race, a vide grenier (flea market) and two dinner concerts concluding with fireworks over the river on Sunday night . Summer is always busy here in the country.


commune worker cleaning the footpaths in our street -
he never stops working
 

A poster from 1925 promoting the Congress
for the National Union of Young Christians in
Sainte Foy la Grande - not a particularly
cheerful view of the town. It has improved a lot
since then - some of it anyway.

Cabaret at a country village marché gourmand 



Enjoy, wherever you are

3 Apr 2019

A Day at the Rugby…..french style


Living in the South-West of France, it almost becomes obligatory that one follows the great game of rugby.

The club

We live in Port Sainte Foy, across the Dordogne River from the medieval town of Sainte Foy la Grande, where there is a local rugby club….”Stade Foyen”. One of my “red lines” when we decided to buy a property in this area is that the house had to be within walking distance of the local rugby stadium (stade). And so it results in being a short 500 metre walk from our home to the local stade.

Gathering of English friends for the Repas

This year, Stade Foyen are celebrating 110 years as a rugby club and are planning major events over a June weekend. They have been crowned club champions of France on at least one or two occasions in that time.


110 years and going strong
Since settling in the area in 2013, I have been a member of Stade Foyen for 6 years and attend all of their home games. Away games can sometimes mean a trip of up to 250 kms each way, so they become a little less attended.

A few of the locals spruiking one of our games

It is clear that there are a number of significant differences in the game here compared to back in Australia and I will endeavour to acquaint you with some of them.

The team

For background purposes, French Rugby comprises a number of different levels as set out below:

  • Top 14 rugby….the elite competition in France with lots of imported players.
  • Pro Division 2….is the next level down and includes many teams from all over France. It is the next level of professional rugby and is very competitive.
  • Then we come down to what is known as Federal Rugby….semi-professional/amateur rugby played across the country in select geographic pools. There are 3 three levels of Federal….Fed 1, Fed 2 and Fed 3.
  •  Finally there are a number of smaller clubs who make up the remaining competitions in the country.
  • There are serious competitions for under 21 and going down to junior competitions.

Early in our time here, we met one of the local team second rowers, who explained to me that in the French game at this level, the referee actually gives the teams the first 5 minutes of the game without any interference, and this occasionally results in some epic fights breaking out without any serious punishment. The cheeky halfbacks create a stink in the first scrum and it is on for young & old.


The main field from the grandstand
The grounds that we play on are immaculate and I know that many players I know in Australia would love to play on them every week compared to some of the grounds back home. Whilst not fully amateur, most clubs run on a fairly tight budget and I have seen a few that strive to move up to a higher level fail and go into bankruptcy. Perigueux, one of the larger clubs in our region did just that a couple of years ago with debts exceeding €1,500,000 and so it is not for the faint hearted.


Game Day
At Stade Foyen, we are lucky to have a complex with two good playing fields and a grandstand holding around 800 people. It even has 8 permanent BOSE speakers for the announcer.

Getting settled in the stand....many more to come

Typically, a local match in our division (Federale 3) would attract a crowd of between 200 and 500 people, although a local derby at the beginning of this year drew almost 2,000. Entrance price is €8, so a good return for the club. The grandstand usually has an area for the local supporters and the other side for the visitors. My friends and I always sit at the back of the visitors section and give them hell, but in English. 


Inside the marquee.....ready for lunch
Perhaps the biggest and most enjoyable difference in watching a match here is the pre- match Repas or meal. The club has a permanent structure set up for meals for spectators before the game. This is normally a 3 or 4 course sit down meal together with local wines. The meals vary from roast beef, salads, pork (including the inclusion of all parts of the animal) and of course lots of frites (French fries), cheese and a desert. The meal costs €12-15 for 4 courses and the wines (good local varieties) are purchased at €5 a bottle.



Lunch with plenty of roast beef and frites
After the meal, everyone then moves to the stand to watch the games (we usually have 2 grades at Stade Foyen). Cheering on the team after a few bottles of red and maybe a coffee infused with cognac can make for an interesting day.

As we are coming to the end of our season, Stade Foyen are now playing in the finals and this weekend, we play off in the final for champions of the Gironde (our local department, which includes Bordeaux) and then the following weekend we commence the final 8 in the Championship for Nouvelle Aquitaine (our local region and the equivalent of a state in Australia).


Enjoying lunch and the brass band
I have endeavoured to post a few photos from our last match to give readers an idea of the atmosphere that makes the game so enjoyable here.