Is this really Spring ?

After three weeks of glorious sunshine, we now have clouds, wind, showers and sunshine all in the same day. Surely that means that spring has arrived.

What we know as wattle is called mimosa here

Daffodils are popping up, the cherry and apple trees are in blossom , the wild violets are scattered through the garden, and the grass has been cut for the first time this year…..ahh, the sound of lawnmowers on a sunny day.  Did you know that, in many parts of France, it is not permissable to use noisy equipment (like lawnmowers) on a sunday or between 12 and 2 on any day. Disturbing a frenchman's lunch, or his sunday off is just going too far. 

wild violets pop up every year scattered through the grass

This is a good time to sit inside and plan the work to be done in the garden when the weather improves.  Daylight Saving Time starts at the end of the month. The plant markets start appearing in the local villages soon and before we know it there will be the usual range of barbecues and outdoor furniture on display at the hardware stores and hypermarkets. That will be a sure sign  that spring has truly arrived.

not a great photo, but this is the lighting above
the reception desk at our local bank (closed at the time) - yes, those are glasses.
Another sign that this is wine country

Horrified at the news from Christchurch.

Keep safe

Limeuil et Trémolat

yellow stone and high pitched roofs

The sun came out on Sunday morning, not something that happens often at this time of year here, so why not make the most of the day while it lasts and take a drive in the country. Sundays are always quiet on the roads as nothing much is open and  french families get together for lunch, either at home or in one of  the few local restaurants to open on a Sunday. So we had the roads pretty much to ourselves.

the confluence of the two waterways

the things some men will do to get out of the house

there's always someone on a bicycle on a sunday

We decided to visit two villages that are off the main road up toward the Vézère valley. We’ve often driven along the main road and noticed the signposts , but never taken the time to turn off and explore. As is so often the case, big mistake as we discovered these little gems.

steep little passageways

can't get lost

one of the four original gateways into the village

Haven't seen many of these -  €1.00 each
for a freshly baked baguette

Limeuil is at the confluence of the Vézère and Dordogne rivers. Actually, the Vézère is a river and the Dordogne is a fleuve. A fleuve is a waterway that flows into the sea, and a river flows into a fleuve ( thus the Musée du Fleuve in our town on the Dordogne).  As these two waterways have been the major highways of the area for hundreds of years, this village has been of major importance, especially in medieval times.

At the top of the promontory overlooking the town is the ruins of the chateau that once protected the villagers,  especially during the Hundred Years’ War with England. Beneath is a cave with over 200 carvings in the limestone  suggesting that this site has been inhabited for perhaps 15,000 years. The Vézère valley is famous for it’s prehistoric sites including Lascaux, so it’s no surprise to think that this spot was important to early man. The hills around the area are now thickly forested, but once they were covered with vineyards and the wine was shipped down the Dordogne to Bordeaux. The phylloxera infestation around 1880 killed off the vines and devastated the local economy.

La Rèze rushing through the centre of Trémolat

some wonderful old stonework in a garden

and more...

Further down the road is the village of Trémolat. There is a fast flowing stream, La Rèze,  running through the centre of town and eventually joining the Dordogne nearby. In the centre of town is a fabulous looking four star hotel with a Michelin starred restaurant. Definitely somewhere for a return visit.

Le Vieux Logis

rear view of the hotel

and the garden

I do love the old gates

These are villages of the “périgordine” style house, local yellow stone and high pitched roofs. The area is known as Périgord Noir because of the forests of dark green oaks. It is also world famous  for black truffles. While this Sunday was cool and the sunshine didn’t last long, I can see why this area is  so popular in the summer. This region is stunning and the villages charming and worth the visit.

Now where to next ?

amour à tous

Bonne année à tous

I know it’s been a while…..apologies. Hope that you have all had a great Christmas and now a new year to look forward to.

We have just celebrated Australia Day again with what has become our annual party for all those not off in sunnier places. A record crowd this year including 11 aussies , some by marriage and having emigrated from elsewhere, but we still think of them as ours. Some even travelled from other parts of the country and stayed overnight creating a bit of a weekend party atmosphere.

we hang flags all through the house

an english friend brought along her friend

just one of the drink stops - not really representative
of the amount of booze consumed

first arrivals always congregate in the kitchen

Aussies exchanging experiences

four nationalities here, including an irish aussie 

Lots of coconut prawns, chilli crab cakes and kangaroo for that true aussie experience. And of  course, pavlovas, lamingtons and anzac biscuits to finish. Much french wine consumed as the aussie stuff is too expensive and difficult to get locally – there’s always a sacrifice.

disappeared in moments

One friend , wanting to share that aussie sense of humour, even read The Loaded Dog to the gathering. They loved the ending and for many of us it evoked memories of the australian countryside. Apart from the aussies we also had english, french, irish, italian and thai guests. We are grateful to have such an international community here and so many good friends. Even our canadian neighbours who had gone home for the winter phoned to wish us a happy Australia Day.

mellowing toward the end 

The party ran on longer than planned, naturally, so we are confident that a good time was had by all.

Bonne Année 

The oldest buildings in Sainte-Foy-la-Grande

In 1255, Sainte Foy la Grande was given it’s royal charter by Alphonse de Poitiers , son of Louis VIII. This gave them permission to hold a weekly market and to govern themselves as an independent town. There has been a settlement here since at least roman times. There are ruins of roman villas scattered along the river valley and artifacts were found here in town during various building works.

rue de la republique - before cars

In the back streets of the old town centre there are quite a few buildings showing their age. 

these  carvings are on the facade of a medieval building.
One side depicts 'good' and the other 'evil'. Not sure which is which or even
what some of them are

this tower is known as La Tour des Templiers (the templar's tower).
The jury is out as to whether it's actually templar or not
but there is also a legend that there is a tunnel from the tower,
under the river, to a house on the other side.

One of them has always interested me. It is built from local stone and has the most beautiful arched windows. It dates from the 13^th century so would be one of the oldest structures still standing and in use here.

lovely arched windows

  

It is only one storey, which is unusual, and was probably originally a craftsman’s house.  It is beside one of the houses owned by the Langalerie family who were one of the local “squires”.  

Chateau de Langalerie

For many years in the last century  it was the atelier (studio) of Paul Corriger, a famous ceramicist. His work has been exhibited in cities like Paris and Florence and many are in buildings around the town, like the post office, the station and schools.

And what is it today ? My hairdresser.  Just a reminder that these old towns live and grow and change.

Bonne semaine mes amis